by Joy Angelica Subido, Star, Thursday, January 24, 2008

Temperance, or the resolve to do things in moderation, was sorely tested during the past holiday season. The numerous reunions with family and friends made flowing intoxicants and rich holiday fare almost impossible to resist, and late night carousing made early morning exercise unlikely. The result of the merrymaking is not so good. One finds that the blood cholesterol levels are now slightly elevated and the weighing scales show a hefty increase in body weight. In this new year, when we find that holding our breath is necessary to be able to comfortably zip up our jeans, there is a steadfast commitment to return to a healthy lifestyle.

Happily, the transition from rich holiday food to healthier choices need not entail a drastic dearth in flavor. Aside from eating more fresh fruits and vegetables, there is tempeh, a fermented soybean cake that can serve as a low-calorie, protein-rich substitute for meat.

"Tempeh is bland. It absorbs flavors very well," says Annie Guerrero, who suggests marinating it before cooking so that it can imbibe the flavor of the marinade. The founder and president of the Cravings Group (composed of such restaurants as Cravings, The Coffee Beanery and C2 Classic Cuisine) and the Center for Culinary Arts (CCA) Manila shares that substituting tempeh for meat in various recipes is both an effective means of cutting calories and getting good nutritional value.

"Tempeh could help solve the country's malnutrition problems. Its appearance can easily be mistaken for tofu, but tempeh has a different texture. It can be utilized in the face of rising food costs and poor dietary habits because of its versatility, higher protein content, dietary fiber and vitamins," says Guerrero.

The United States Department of Agriculture has, in fact, identified tempeh as "more nutritious than tofu and an excellent source of protein." Its firm texture, nutty and mushroom-like flavor make it an ideal ingredient for healthy, flavorful meals.

In Indonesia where tempeh is common fare with approximately 40,000 to 50,000 shops throughout the country, soybeans are fermented using Rhizopus oligosporous yeast, which is commonly known as RAGI. The soybeans are inoculated for three days, resulting in a firm, white or yellowish slab with patches of black or veined molds, which indicate that the yeast is still alive. These patches can be trimmed away before cooking. However, unlike tofu that is made with special equipment, tempeh-making requires no special technology. The warm climate of the Philippines is ideal for tempeh production.

"My advocacy is to enhance culinary skill as a source of livelihood," shares Guerrero. As president of the Culinary Education Foundation (CEF), her goal is to develop the basic culinary skills of individuals in the community. In line with this, CEF has embarked on projects that seek to provide livelihood opportunities with partner communities and organizations. A program called "Super Manang" is one of the beneficiaries of CEF's livelihood training.

"Super Manang is a group composed of women who were trained by volunteer culinary professionals," explains Guerrero. "One of their latest livelihood projects for the community is tempeh production, which will give members the opportunity to do sustainable products and increase their knowledge of the food industry. It supports the program's basic goal of providing opportunities to women to become self-sufficient without neglecting their primary role of raising healthy children."

Tempeh-making promises to be a financially gainful project that could augment household incomes. While a 250-milligram slab costs P20-P30 locally, the same fetches almost $5 in the United States. Perhaps a local entrepreneur could export the products to other countries sometime soon.

However, the old saying "the test of the pudding is in the eating" holds true, and we had to try tempeh to test its merits. At C2 Classic Cuisine in Rockwell Power Plant Mall, chef Oliver Gascon prepared tempeh dishes to tempt us to embrace the healthy "superfood."

The selections didn't disappoint. Tempeh veggie wrap was light, refreshing and agreeably spicy and was reminiscent of Vietnamese fare. With it, one can have pinakurat vinegar dressing or an unfamiliar and somewhat strange milk-based dressing. (I suggest that you opt for the deliciously sour pinakurat.) Lumpiang hubad was a pleasingly familiar Filipino favorite made with fresh vegetables cooked to the right degree of doneness, while bam-i, noodles with tempeh and traditional ingredients should be a nice transition dish for those who prefer a gradual change to healthy eating. An authentic soy-glazed sweet and sour tempeh was first prepared by an Indonesian restaurant patron who, perhaps missing traditional Indonesian fare, requested to be allowed into C2's kitchen to whip up her own food.

Clearly, there are endless mouthwatering possibilities for tempeh. With enough imagination, the right seasonings, creative combinations, and enough resolve, one can really opt for healthier food choices this year.

However, I must confess that this early, I am guilty of some backsliding. The crispy kare-kare at C2 Classic Cuisine is excellent so on that visit, I inevitably ate a lot of pork again. But no matter, it will be healthy tempeh tomorrow. After all, tomorrow is another day. Sigh.

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The Culinary Education Foundation conducts tempeh production training for communities and organizations upon request. To place orders and for inquiries, call Shirley at 0920-2526370 or 929-4152, Joy de Asis at 928-8167 and 426-4840 local 203, or e-mail This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it .

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C2 Classic Cuisine is at the second floor, Power Plant Mall, Rockwell Center, Makati City, with tel. no. 897-8113.

Link: Philstar

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